I love all things
style-wonkish, and I always want to read more, go deeper, and examine
it all more closely when it comes to articles about fashion concept
and theory. I want to find out what people are thinking or feeling
when they design, buy, or style a particular garment. Tim
Gunn's Fashion Bible
( by Tim Gunn and Ada Calhoun, published by Gallery Books, 2012) is
a deeply satisfying dose of creative nosiness for inquisitive people
like me. And I am such
a Tim Gunn fan.
Do
you remember the scene in The
Devil Wears Prada
when Miranda Priestly lectures the style-challenged Andrea on the
design history of a cerulean blue sweater? (You haven't seen The
Devil Wears Prada
? Seriously? Okay ... you can watch a clip of the scene HERE .) This little book is about that, and
a lot more. It's all about the fashion genealogy of every item of
clothing we own, and that's a lot for one little book to accomplish.
Beginning
from the year dot to the present day, right down to the contents of
your very own closet, Gunn and Calhoun trace the forebearers of each
item you own. You will learn whether your taste in dresses is more
like Cleopatra's or that of Helen of Troy. You'll learn about the
bodices, sleeves, waists, menswear, military boots and pointy-toed
shoes of the past, and how much we owe to history for our
contemporary style. The book details how, throughout the centuries,
silhouettes have narrowed or widened, hems and heel heights have
gone up and down, depending on war, famine, exploration, technology
or just the whim of a king insecure about his height.
By
the way, it's not just for women only. For a change, the authors
include ample history of how men's fashion developed. How else can
we fully consider the politics of gender without at least a brief
look at how the adoption of men's clothing has changed the world for
women? And who among us has not lost sleep fretting about the proper
way to choose and wear a pocket square?
The
pictures are on the small side, but what they lack in size they make
up for in frequency. Every time I began to wish for an illustration
of a particular historical example, the very thing would appear. The
authors have successfully made this book entertaining as well as
informative, and the illustrations are a big part of the book's
appeal.
I think the name of the
book is problematic, as it seems to me to suggest that it offers
unbreakable fashion commandments, issued from somewhere on high. It
really doesn't do that, but it does broaden our understanding of why
the history of what we wear is relevant. It's certainly authoritative
in that sense. There are concluding chapters that address the
contents of most modern closets, and why it's useful, interesting and
fun to consider the contents of your own closet in the context of
fashion history. The book also touches on the modern history of the
fashion industry, how it affects us as consumers and how to use
that knowlege for a better shopping experience. Lovers of the new
and innovative will enjoy this fascinating history, but recyclers,
repurposers, thrifters and vintage collectors will adore it.
We are used to seeing Mr.
Gunn in the role of fashion mentor (and former department chair of
fashion design at Parsons) of "Make it work!" fame on
Project Runway. His
self-described, urban fashion nerdy-ness comes out here in his
serious treatment of the resources needed to examine the subject. He
and Ms. Calhoun have carefully footnoted and fully cited their source
materials. That may not constitute biblical authority, but it is the
proper way to present research, and it gives an interested reader
direction for an even more in-depth study of the subject. I really LOVE that a lot.
So,
every time I pull out my trench coat, my blouse with Raglan sleeves,
my Eisenhower jacket or choose from my Cowboy, Wellington, English
Riding or Cavalry inspired Over-the-Knee boots, I will be more aware
of what I'm saying about myself through my choices. If you are the
kind of nerdy, fashion-wonk, history-loving kind of woman to whom
this is important, you really need to read this book. (And if you
have bothered to read this far, you just might be.)
___________________________________
Please
join me at the amazing Patti's (Historically Significant) Visible Monday !
