Suzy Menkes' article, "The Circus of Fashion" has upset me way more than it should. Really,
her disdain for those she perceives as un-and-under qualified fashion
bloggers is far away from my realm of concern. Her influence on me
is from such a rarefied distance that I might never have noticed it
at all if I had not seen it's negative effect, directly and
indirectly, on two of my favorite women, both bloggers, whose
opinions I value and whose happiness does concern me.
One of
the women I mention will remain anonymous in my discussion. Without
breaking her confidence to me, I can say she has lately questioned
whether her ideas have a legitimate place in fashion blogging. This
is, in part, because there are so many younger, more conventionally
beautiful women, with more resources to spend, and therefore, in my
friend's perception, seen as more interesting and valid. It is fair
to mention her worries because I'd bet a lot that there are few of
you who are reading this that have not fretted about something
similar, at least once.
Veshoevius,
the creator of her blog "The Taxonomy of My Wardrobe" has
recently been public in her response to Ms. Menkes' commentary. And
she is the other person I reference, but she has different reasons
for her response. She doesn't need my defense, or even my support as
a sister style enthusiast. But because I just really like and respect
what I know of her, I hate it that even for a moment, in her own
words, she felt "kind of ashamed to be a blogger." I'm
relieved that she wrote us around to her intelligent conclusions
about Menkes' complaints. And I was relieved to see her subsequent
post showing her back in all her lovely fighting form. But I hope so
much that she will not take that first initial jolt very seriously or
for any length of time at all.
There
seems to be a consensus that much of what Ms. Menkes said is true.
She was certainly factual in many of her comments, but the meaning
that fact holds is still subject to interpretation. The fashion
industry created the crashers, the photo-op chasers, the
over-the-toppers and is responsible for their flourishing. Ms.
Menkes is an important cog in that great big, hard grinding wheel of
fashion commerce. Since, as Veshoevius points out, the entire goal
is to sell as many of us as possible the most possible product, it
seems particularly counterproductive to slap around those who are
your best customers! Fashion victims, indeed. It seems outrageous
to me that the very people you want to convince to buy your product
should be told outright that their opinion of the product is without
merit.
In any
art or design education worth a bit of salt, the artist learns the
value of critique. In school, it is done by peers and instructors.
And in the best of all worlds the student gets better as the result
of appropriate critique and the process should be welcomed. Out in
the world, when the artist (or designer) puts their work out for all
to see, that critique does not and should not stop. When buying an
artistic product, the customer's subjective, taste-based opinion may
not be the only one of value, but it is the only opinion that counts
ultimately in terms of the sale. And my sense is that those who
sneer at the participation of the hoi-polloi don't really want to
sell a lot of garments.
Additionally,
Ms Menkes asks, "Who needs to graduate from Central Saint
Martins in London or New York's Fashion Institute of Technology when
a homemade outfit can go viral on YouTube with millions of hits?"
Good question, but the answer lies dead center within her question
itself. If these graduates are not realistic enough to understand
that they will indeed compete with the merit that exists beyond the
scope of academia, then these venerable institutions fail their
students in fundamental ways. Our own academically-accomplished
Veshoevius was too polite to say that these graduates often cannot
hold their own with rocket scientists and brain surgeons, but I'm
not. My own education comes from another similar (but not so tony) fine arts college. I can say with certainty, our graduating institutions don't guarantee talent and taste.
All of you who are reading this are
aware that there are growing numbers of women, younger and maturing,
fully mature, and some of us downright aged, who are no longer
content to sit down, shut up and gently fade away as the end of life
approaches. Women like Patti (at Not Dead Yet Style) host women like
me and my silent friend and Veshoevius at cyber-gatherings like her Visible Monday project where style blogging women ( sometimes triple
digits in number !) show up to show out just a little. The process
is gentle, and the point is to assert our visibility in a safe place
where all are encouraged. Critique is not the point here. Encouragement is. We are
not professionals, for the most part, nor are most of us selling much
of anything. There is some light commercial activity, but it is
usually geared to our niche audience and presented by members from
our own ranks. It's a movement, I tell you, and it's growing. It is
a good, kind thing to happen within the often callously and
deliberately unkind fashion world.
Establishing an office space in an
ivory tower often leads to an inability to see what's happening on
the ground. It follows that it's not surprising that Ms. Menkes can't
see us at all. So I shouldn't take her comments very seriously, and I
hope my anonymous friend and Veshoevius will join me in carrying on
without Suzy's approval.