Suzy Menkes' article, "The Circus of Fashion" has upset me way more than it should. Really,
her disdain for those she perceives as un-and-under qualified fashion
bloggers is far away from my realm of concern. Her influence on me
is from such a rarefied distance that I might never have noticed it
at all if I had not seen it's negative effect, directly and
indirectly, on two of my favorite women, both bloggers, whose
opinions I value and whose happiness does concern me.
One of
the women I mention will remain anonymous in my discussion. Without
breaking her confidence to me, I can say she has lately questioned
whether her ideas have a legitimate place in fashion blogging. This
is, in part, because there are so many younger, more conventionally
beautiful women, with more resources to spend, and therefore, in my
friend's perception, seen as more interesting and valid. It is fair
to mention her worries because I'd bet a lot that there are few of
you who are reading this that have not fretted about something
similar, at least once.
Veshoevius,
the creator of her blog "The Taxonomy of My Wardrobe" has
recently been public in her response to Ms. Menkes' commentary. And
she is the other person I reference, but she has different reasons
for her response. She doesn't need my defense, or even my support as
a sister style enthusiast. But because I just really like and respect
what I know of her, I hate it that even for a moment, in her own
words, she felt "kind of ashamed to be a blogger." I'm
relieved that she wrote us around to her intelligent conclusions
about Menkes' complaints. And I was relieved to see her subsequent
post showing her back in all her lovely fighting form. But I hope so
much that she will not take that first initial jolt very seriously or
for any length of time at all.
There
seems to be a consensus that much of what Ms. Menkes said is true.
She was certainly factual in many of her comments, but the meaning
that fact holds is still subject to interpretation. The fashion
industry created the crashers, the photo-op chasers, the
over-the-toppers and is responsible for their flourishing. Ms.
Menkes is an important cog in that great big, hard grinding wheel of
fashion commerce. Since, as Veshoevius points out, the entire goal
is to sell as many of us as possible the most possible product, it
seems particularly counterproductive to slap around those who are
your best customers! Fashion victims, indeed. It seems outrageous
to me that the very people you want to convince to buy your product
should be told outright that their opinion of the product is without
merit.
In any
art or design education worth a bit of salt, the artist learns the
value of critique. In school, it is done by peers and instructors.
And in the best of all worlds the student gets better as the result
of appropriate critique and the process should be welcomed. Out in
the world, when the artist (or designer) puts their work out for all
to see, that critique does not and should not stop. When buying an
artistic product, the customer's subjective, taste-based opinion may
not be the only one of value, but it is the only opinion that counts
ultimately in terms of the sale. And my sense is that those who
sneer at the participation of the hoi-polloi don't really want to
sell a lot of garments.
Additionally,
Ms Menkes asks, "Who needs to graduate from Central Saint
Martins in London or New York's Fashion Institute of Technology when
a homemade outfit can go viral on YouTube with millions of hits?"
Good question, but the answer lies dead center within her question
itself. If these graduates are not realistic enough to understand
that they will indeed compete with the merit that exists beyond the
scope of academia, then these venerable institutions fail their
students in fundamental ways. Our own academically-accomplished
Veshoevius was too polite to say that these graduates often cannot
hold their own with rocket scientists and brain surgeons, but I'm
not. My own education comes from another similar (but not so tony) fine arts college. I can say with certainty, our graduating institutions don't guarantee talent and taste.
All of you who are reading this are
aware that there are growing numbers of women, younger and maturing,
fully mature, and some of us downright aged, who are no longer
content to sit down, shut up and gently fade away as the end of life
approaches. Women like Patti (at Not Dead Yet Style) host women like
me and my silent friend and Veshoevius at cyber-gatherings like her Visible Monday project where style blogging women ( sometimes triple
digits in number !) show up to show out just a little. The process
is gentle, and the point is to assert our visibility in a safe place
where all are encouraged. Critique is not the point here. Encouragement is. We are
not professionals, for the most part, nor are most of us selling much
of anything. There is some light commercial activity, but it is
usually geared to our niche audience and presented by members from
our own ranks. It's a movement, I tell you, and it's growing. It is
a good, kind thing to happen within the often callously and
deliberately unkind fashion world.
Establishing an office space in an
ivory tower often leads to an inability to see what's happening on
the ground. It follows that it's not surprising that Ms. Menkes can't
see us at all. So I shouldn't take her comments very seriously, and I
hope my anonymous friend and Veshoevius will join me in carrying on
without Suzy's approval.
Critique is a far cry from bashing - which is what we're really dealing with. It's so easy to snub the lowly fashion "bourgeoisie", especially those of us that are older, rounder, or more damaged than the young, hip consumer most trends court.
ReplyDeleteThere is some validity to the "dime a dozen" label - but as this country's demographic skews older (and rounder) those in the industry and on the blogs smart enough to provide this niche with a quality product will inevitably prosper.
I'm not going away anytime soon ;-)
Spashionista (Alicia)
So glad you're here to stay, Alicia! Yes ... much of my extreme annoyance is from the implication that industry professionals (ahem!) are above criticism, by anyone. Speaking of round ... if you give Menkes the complete objectivity she demands, it could be said that she, too, is among the ineligible . She looks much closer in phenotype to you and me.
DeleteI need to stop ranting and go draw something for the next post. More fun next time, I promise. Thanks for reading and responding!
J
AMEN, Jan! Thank goodness for the bloggers who are around my age, who may not be conventionally gorgeous and who get some of their clothes at Target and/or thrift shops.
ReplyDeleteI was thrilled when I found the blogs of Patti, and Pam of Over50Feelin40. FINALLY! Women who are dealing with the same life issues I am, who may or may not be loaded with money, but who still want to look their very best. How can I relate to a pencil-thin, 17 year old waif?
I can't tell you how much inspiration I've received from such bloggers.
Cindy at Notes in the Key of Life
What? You mean we're NOT all conventionally gorgeous?! Ha! Gotcha. Nice to meet you, Cindy.
DeleteYes, I'm a Target shopper, too. After dinner last Sunday (and two glasses of wine) the Huz took me to Target and I bought reversible flowered skinny jeans and silver patent pumps! This could have been VERY bad, but I'm actually pleased with these purchases. Shopping and wine rarely mix, but sometimes I get away with it. Same goes for ranting on the blog ... I can't do it often, but sometimes it works out for the best.
More fun in the next post, I promise!
Beautifully written, Jan. I love this: "Critique is not the point here. Encouragement is." Couldn't we all use more encouragement and community, especially as we age and change?
ReplyDeleteI left the corporate world behind, with its hierarchies and climbing, and I for one am not going back to *that* model for fashion and blogging! Thanks for sharing your wise thoughts with Visible Monday. xoxoxoxoxo
From you, Patti, high praise, and you and your efforts were surely part of the inspiration. I learned to thrive on critique long ago, but it is not appropriate for everyone. Not so much because it shouldn't be offered, but it's not automatically the best thing to offer when support for effort is what is needed. I love and admire the way you respond to every single person, and try to emulate that. If you ever wonder if your effort is of value, you must remember how much your project has done for so many women. Just saying.
DeleteBig old hugs, if you like those...
J
Coco Chanel herself said, "A fashion that does not reach the streets is not a fashion."
ReplyDeleteWho is walking on the streets, wearing said fashion? Me, that's who. And the other regular women who don't have limitless budgets and size 00 hips. We do not have the luxury of looking down at the streets from our ivory tower.
Truly, I do not consider myself a fashion blogger. Fashion bloggers are like movie critics, who observe then make a judgement. Nothing wrong with that, it's just not me.
I am a personal style blogger. My life is where fashion's rubber meets the style road. I live it everyday and no one, no self-inflated, nose in the air commentator can take that away from me. Style is mine, all mine!
That's all. Thanks, Jan! ~Sarah
Really an important point, Smart Sarah. I love fashion just like everyone else, but style is what you do with it and that's what counts. As you know. Please take care of yourself and baby and bigger baby, and your huz (biggest baby?, and know how much we all love what you do. Thanks for all!
DeletePersonally, I don't really like "fashion" and the latest things off the runway. I like to see pictures of people's personal style using their ordinary clothes in new ways. Then I can steal their ideas! Like I put on my blog, I'm not a maven. I'm just a Val.
ReplyDeleteStill, Val, you are fashionable! That's where ordinary clothes come from, the runways. But I agree about your preference for original inspiration. I like the mix of high and low, pricey or grande value, that we see at VisMon ... it has lots of creative value, from my perspective. Everything. Except Suzy Menkes.
DeleteHa.
Well said, Jan! I think I can speak for most of us in saying we don't think of ourselves as 'fashion bloggers', we're just a group of women who are here to celebrate others. Whether it be celebrating their successes, talents, or fashion ideas, that's all we're here to do and in doing so we are uplifted and inspired daily. When I began blogging it was simply to have a positive, uplifting and creative outlet, part of that creativity just happens to be in they way I put outfits together (its my artistic outlet). Most of us are not here to sell but rather to share. I, for one, enjoy my daily dose of inspirations from all of you.
ReplyDeleteYes, there's an unspoken rule about no criticism on VM, and I concur completely. It's VM's raison d'etra, and while I have not been hanging around as long as many, I've seen the value to lots of women. I do think many do see themselves as fashion bloggers, but that's in how we define the concept of fashion. I don't believe in relentless positivity, but I do get offering encouragement to the many brave women who are still flailing around in our culture, trying to keep a place at the table. Thanks for doing what you do ... it is needed.
DeleteYou're preaching to the choir, as they say. You are right on target. I can't say I pay any attention to people like Suzy Menkes, although occasionally "they" will be on my radar. I'd like to think that blogging gives "us" a forum to express ourselves, and that the eventual wave of voices will shift popular culture in a significant way. In the meantime, I'm just enjoying making new friends that I wouldn't meet otherwise.
ReplyDeleteLike you!! What are the chances of meeting you, the Fort Smith Stylista?!! :-)
Part of my problem is that I read almost everything that comes under my nose, at least on subjects that interest me. Yes, our forum is here in blogging ... and what Menkes does not get is that most of the world at large doesn't even know who she is. She isn't usually on our radar at all.
DeleteI'd love to believe that you are right about cultural shift, but living here I see old hierarchies entrenching deeper, hanging on to their vestiges of power, making it tough on women, children, the poor ... and Gods help you if you are not WASP.
Wow ... no more rants today, Jan. I'm just so glad you're enjoying the world Jean. You're an inspiration.
Yes, I'd so love to meet you too, Jean. We never get away (seriously, with farm and restaurant, we've not had a vacation in 16 years!) but I'm working on that. My blog is my magic door to what I think of as real world. Who knows, something may happen! I check your huz's site sometimes to see if he's every playing in a city anywhere close ... Dan especially would love to hear him play. Wouldn't we all have fun? Stay tuned, Jean!
A great post, Jan! Who has the right and the competence to judge whether it is of value what we are doing or not? I prefer seeing real woman wearing clothes than size-zero model wearing extraordinary fashion. Of course the fashion shows and the foto series in the magazins give me ideas, but even more the fashion bloggers do that. Furthermore for me fashion and dressing up is a kind of playing to express myself and how I feel. Independent from rules and perfection.
ReplyDeleteAnd in this relation blogging is a diary writing. Who may judge what I'm telling in my diary? We should not take Susi too serious. She's writing for money and thats a hard job.
Great point, Sabine. These blogs we write function as personal journals. We will just keep on growing and dressing up! Thanks for all. I always look forward to seeing what you have put together.
DeleteThank you for this post Jan! I have no idea who is Suzy Menkes and I have not read her article not am I interested in it.As an artist I am interested in expressing my creativity in all forms which make me happy. I am not in competition with any one nor am I trying to please anybody. As I never buy designer clothing, I noticed lately that the blog has become a playful place in which I challenge my self to put together outfits on a small budget. Big hug, Sara
ReplyDeleteSorry, Sara for writing about our national sillyness ... but you make a point for me. Suzy Menkes is a big noise in the British and American fashion press, but her influence is definitely limited! Your artistry shows in all you do, and I'm so impressed always with your expression. Thanks for reading, but mostly for your own blogging!
DeleteJan, what a GREAT post!! I really enjoyed and agree with your point of view! Bravo!
ReplyDeleteOn another note, I just wanted to thank you for your thoughtful and funny comments you leave me. Such a treat!!
Aww, thanks again for your own kind comments here, Jeannie. Sometimes when I am being my rowdy, crabby self and am not happy with my own behavior, I try to remember the example of your public cheeriness. And more than once, I've wondered how you would style an outfit, so there's that, too.
DeleteTreat for Treat!
Hugs,
J
We very well spoken. We are bloggers, we are individuals, we don't need the approval of anyone to get on our own person space each day and share something we are proud of. I just recently heard about forums like GOMI and they discuss me. Who has enough time in the day to take about and point fun at others? We are adults!
ReplyDeleteGinny
mynewfavoriteoutfit.blogspot.com
Have no idea what GOMI is, but it sounds dreadful! I'd rather waste time poking fun at those that abuse power. Now that's a well spent afternoon!
DeleteI still am smiling at your Pokerface post. Keep writing and blogging ... we all need to see your progress!
And this post right here is one of the reasons I love you Jan. well said. huzzah!
ReplyDeleteThere you are! What is up with you? I'm going directly to your blog to see if you are just a figment of my imagination or not. If you're on break, that will be ok, but hope all is well with you. Stay well, happy and in touch, please.
DeleteI'm done ranting (for the moment) and going back to my regularly scheduled programming. I know I'm not the only one who is glad I got that out of my system!
Hang in there, kid.
J
Fashion is art. We don't have to be trained artists to have an eye for it. Everyone is free to express their creativity and promote it as they see fit. As a professionally trained actor, nothing burned me more than a newbie coming into it "naturally talented" and booking the part I worked my butt off for. It happens. And while I wanted to grumble about it, I had no control over it.
ReplyDeleteGreat post, Jan, as always. I feel like I leave a better, more educated, open minded person after visiting your wonderful blog.
I'd say that some elements of fashion fall into the art category. The conception,construction, and even marketing (think the great photographers.) And every blog I look at shows how sophisticated "Everywoman" has become in distilling this information and vision and making it useful in her own life.
DeleteSo true about winning and losing.! (And by the same rule, grumbling is allowed ... indeed, mandatory in some cases!) I knew you had some arts background.
Glad you liked the post ... and I swear I'm done ranting for the moment, at least. I appreciate the very high praise, Alison. Glad there's meaning for you in it ... I hope to entertain!
Keep writing yourself, please.
I loved your rant and I tweeted it! I just read an article on IFB last night encouraging all the personal style bloggers instead of tearing us down. I agree with you 100 percent! Commercial fashion SHOULD be running scared since wearing what you want that makes you feel good...as we do...and interesting street fashion is all about...is becoming more and more popular. Debbie @ ilovemylemonadelife.com And thanks for the nice comments on my blog!
ReplyDeleteYes, I remember that I just said that I was not willing to be told to sit down, shut up and just fade away. HOWEVER, it's also a good thing to know when to do it voluntarily! Rant over, regular programming back on schedule. But I just get so annoyed.
DeleteGlad you got something out of it, and so happy you stopped by!
Looking forward to your spring stuff!
J
Hey, I miss your avatar. Can't we see what you're wearing while ranting? I never heard of what's her name, nor do I care what she has to say. I hardly even think of myself as a blogger, let along anything to do with fashion. heehee. I just like dressing up and sewing and wearing whatever I want. And then I like finding other women that do those sort of things too. It's pretty cool.
ReplyDeleteOh drat, puleeze get rid of the captcha.
Actually I look a lot like that little cartoon woman clutching the roll of toilet paper that I did earlier in the winter. Mostly in pj's yesterday. More avatars coming, some might be fun. Am working on one for the G. Caillebotte SIA thing, and one of the huz that I hope to show soon. Learning on the fly is a pistol when you're as much of a detail woman as I am.
DeleteI'm a ranter. Then I'm done.
Sorry about the Robot Detection Device! It's a great name, though, isn't it? You don't have to answer that ...
Thanks again, Pao. You're a peach.
I do think that she went over the top with critiquing bloggers just for not having the right "credentials" to post their opinion. THere are many bloggers out there without a formal fashion education, Sussie Bubble for example, who are probably more knowledgable about the designers and trends out there than some editors for respectable publications. I think that she forgets that the cream still goes to the top in the fashion blogging world-those posting stupid trend posts and rehashing the same pictures everyone else is from fashion week are just never going to get a wide enough readership to really have a voice in the industry.
ReplyDeleteThat said, I do think that her critique of the pompous new wave of editors strutting their bright over-the-top ensembles exclusively from the most hyped-about collections of the season are diluting what personal style stands for. I know that I was a much bigger fan of the french understated style examples that she brought out in the bottom. They seem to be women who really give a lot of thought to each garment that they purchase, and don't just spring their credit cards and fashion connections to get the latest season of every major designer, and then end up requiring separate apartments just to store the insane amount of clothing they acquire.
I love your blog, so many interesting thoughts here! Check mine out and let me know if you want to follow each other!
xx
Sophisticated Lace
Hey, Kamilla! Thanks for reading and your comments. I jumped over to your place, and was so impressed with the Elvira 't Hart post. Wow!
DeleteBeyond Menkes' nearsightedness in her taste for a certain ilk within the bloggy-world, my primary objection is that she takes no responsibility for the mess that the fashion industry has made for themselves. Because she promotes an exclusionary environment and defines who is eligible to participate, she is automatically part of it. And the preening editors she objects to belong to that same cadre, are absolutely supported by the designers and the attached journalistic rank and file. The peacocks are creatures that belong to Menkes and her milieu. They dealt this mess.
Certainly the lovely and famous French fashionables are admirable, and I take nothing from the women she gives as example. But all around the periphery of the FW venues are
equally tasteful and style-virtuous women, who live right here in the same country. Menkes implies by the contrast she chooses that there are no women (or men, for that matter) with comparable taste and discernment here. She knows better, I am sure.
Most of the women I know who show and tell their daily style choices are so far removed from Menkes' world that it doesn't enter into their awareness often, or at all. I'm just railing at Menkes railing because what's she's railing about is her fault. At least in part.
Thanks again for finding some interest in my ideas. I appreciate your stopping by to make note.
See you around on Google (for as long as it's doing what it's supposed to) and Bloglovin'.
Jan
Menkes Schmenkes indeed! I've read and reread this post several times now it's so good, and then all the great comments, and then all your witty replies. I'm so glad you wrote this and what a piece of writing it is! I enjoyed this read immensely.
ReplyDeleteYou know my thoughts on this already but like you, I do feel that a positive, kind and supportive movement is being overshadowed and hijacked by that "often callously and deliberately unkind fashion world" (what a beautifully accurate description) to be moulded into something that looks more like it's nasty unpleasant self. And that I don't like.
And loved this "Establishing an office space in an ivory tower often leads to an inability to see what's happening on the ground" - ironic no? Fashion actually depends so much on a connection with that ground - given that much of fashion inspiration comes from the street and not the other way around - and then ironically the industry expects to sell it back to the street in its new "improved" form.
Don't worry about me, life has taught me that waiting for approval to do things means usually a life of just waiting. I'm not planning to fade away as life goes on either or retreat from blogging. In a way knowing for sure that someone disapproves rather than just suspecting it is the best sort of release - you're free then to carry on behaving as badly as you like once you realise you shouldn't really care.
Thanks, V ... your comments mean a lot. No, not really worried about your ultimate response, but I noted how bad you felt at exclusion from participation in FW. It insults every one of us here and where you are (as Menkes is international in her reach) when she implies that the admittedly very lovely French women are the only examples of taste fit for inclusion. Crap.
DeleteYes. If you're already in poo, the only way out is through. And as you say about waiting for approval, the other thing I've found is that there usually isn't any Universal Board of Approval for me to consult. I always thought there was, somehow. This I learned from the Wizard of Oz.
Am actually in funds and have time for a haircut today, and that feels like the lap of luxury to me. So I'm off to do that.
Thank you again for reading and writing. Hope to hear more from you soon.
J.
Hi there-what a truly innovative and thought provoking post and I love your line of 'I can say with certainty, our graduating institutions don't guarantee talent and taste'. Not holding any type of graduate or uni qualifications I totally agree and feel that the world of style and fashion blogging is always open for interpretation and inspiration in a positive way, whatever your age. Outfit posts can be and are meant to be celebrated and enjoyed whatever your social status and I feel compliment journalists, magazines and other formal literature out there. Well said Jan, thanks for sharing your intuitive thoughts with us all xxx
ReplyDeleteYou make a good point here ... and it occurred to me while reading it that in our outfit posts, we distill what the Olympian heights of fashion have given us to work with. We're the interpreters ... the outfit blogger should be proud of that.
DeleteThanks for the inspiration!
And you prove your own point ... credentials do not make art, or style, or fashion. "Everywoman" does!
Thanks for reading and your comments!
Well, well...you see this is why I come here. An intelligent and articulated point of view, and spirit! Had never heard of Suzy, and have no particular desire to read her article. I do, however, care very much about you and the lovely bloggers that have taken the care to comment with such passion. Maybe I live in my little colourful bubble, but that's what I choose. I also feel so grateful to have found such a warm, embracing community of like minded women.
ReplyDeleteSue xo
I think your colorful but clear bubble is a better vantage point than Menkes' ivory tower. Your blog is getting bolder and brighter every week. Honor to know you, ma'am.
DeleteEverytime I put an outfit together a bit of my heart goes in it and it becomes part of who I am.And that's how I define fashion and style and this has nothing to do with fashion industry.Plus I love our fashion blog community of real women.
ReplyDeleteYour comment gets down to the heart of the matter ... no pun intended. While I don't doubt the value or passion invested by bloggers who do it for the money as well as the love, those who do it for love alone have to be at least as well respected.
DeleteThanks Kelly, for reading and commenting.
An exquisite piece of writing! The terms 'safe' and 'encouraged' resonate with me; at this point in my life I want nothing less. This vibrant blogging community gives so much to my life, so what Suzy Menkes has to say does not affect me in the least.
ReplyDeleteI always appreciate the thoughtful and encouraging comments that you leave on my blog. Thank you!
Thank so much for your always kind comments Judith. I've been thinking a lot about this whole kerfuffle, and I've come away with the understanding that Menkes and her milieu need us much more than we need them. We're the ones who distill the ideas and items they sell. Our own creative responses finalize the creative process ... our part is necessary.
DeleteI think that's pretty cool.
Thank you for taking the time to read, but especially for the inspiration you provide. You rock, Ma'am.
Well said sister! The 'fashion world' is something I know next to nothing about, and as such I have no idea who Ms. Menkes is. I would never have heard of her if you hadn't mentioned her. If I go to check out her work, she has YOU to thank for it. Oh the irony!
ReplyDeleteHa! You're turning out to be a sister smart-alec! Love it. But you know, she is a big noise for some good reasons, and commands some respect she deserves. Not when she's behaving badly ... I wonder if she is as mean spirited as her article might lead one to believe?
ReplyDeleteDid I tell you that the huz and I honeymooned in Nanaimo? Is the Butterfly Farm still there?
Why yes, it is, though I haven't been myself.
DeleteAs a "fashion blogger" just coming on to the scene, I can relate to the feelings of "what do I know?/have to offer?/am I doing here?," as well. But what won out for me is the process of writing, sharing, and having a voice...and most of us would agree that there's no harm in that, whatsoever. Really, who is forcing anyone read our supposedly subquality blogs, anyway?
ReplyDeleteYour so-called "ranting" was beautifully thought out and thourough, well written, and eloquent. I have not read the article...yet...but I am intrigued. I have a feeling that I'll end up deciding that I don't care much about the high and mighty folks that belittle others because of their own percieved superiority...yet it also ruffles my feathers a bit, nonetheless.